
Between the Gown and the Gaze: How Renaissance Courtesans Used Fashion to Command Power
April 29, 2025
Voyeurism: Watching Is Power
April 29, 2025Before the word “influencer” existed, before anyone talked about personal brands or emotional labor, there was the courtesan. She moved through rooms like a question no one could quite answer. She wasn’t just a lover. She was a strategist, an artist, a performer. Here’s what a real day looked like for a high-ranking courtesan in Renaissance Italy-from perfumes and poetry to politics and power.
Morning: The Alchemy of Appearance
She wakes before the city. Her hair is brushed and perfumed, her skin rubbed with oils of rose and amber. A servant prepares her toilette: face powder made from crushed pearls, a hint of rouge, a beauty mark strategically placed. She is not getting dressed. She is becoming a symbol.
Clothing matters. A silk gown with golden threads. Embroidered slippers. A girdle that emphasizes her waistline. Every item of her wardrobe communicates something to those who will see her—status, wealth, sensual control. Nothing is accidental. Even her scent is calculated to linger in memory.
Fact: Some Venetian courtesans owned over 20 pairs of shoes and dozens of wigs, carefully catalogued for different types of visitors.

Veronica Franco Portrait by Tintoretto, ca. 1575
Midday: Correspondence, Conversation, Control
While other women embroider in silence, she writes.
Letters to clients. To cardinals. To princes. Sometimes under her own name, sometimes ghostwriting for a lover. She knows how to say just enough to make a man feel desired, but not certain. Seduction by ink. Rhetoric as ritual.
Fact: Courtesans like Veronica Franco were celebrated for their poetry and letters. Some of their correspondence influenced real political decisions.
By noon, she receives visitors. Not for sex—not yet. These are intellectuals, diplomats, collectors, poets. They bring her books, stories, rare perfumes. In return, she gives them conversation.
Her home is a salon. A space where men feel seen, but never fully in control.

Tullia d’Aragona, portrayed as Salome L’Erodiade by Moretto da Brescia
Afternoon: Performance and Pleasure
If a client is allowed intimacy, it is always on her terms.
She may read him poetry first. Or ask him questions designed to strip away his pride. Sometimes she plays the lute. Sometimes she sings. Sometimes she simply watches him until he forgets who is watching whom.
Fact: In many city-states, courtesans were trained in music, classical languages, and philosophy before they ever accepted a patron.
When sex does happen, it is a continuation of theatre. A calculated gesture. A confirmation of status. And very often, it is followed by negotiation: gifts, promises, new connections.
She does not give herself. She brokers herself.

Titian – Danaë
Evening: Ritual, Reflection, Reputation
She ends her day with ritual. A bath in scented water. A change of jewelry. A letter written by candlelight.
She may host a final guest or send away a gift with a note.
But she is already thinking about tomorrow: what persona to wear, what phrase to drop into a conversation, what look will strike just the right nerve.
Fact: Some courtesans kept personal ledgers of guests, notes on their tastes, and cross-references with political events in the city.

Fiametta; a Venetian Courtesan
The courtesan was not an escort. She was an artist of perception. A curator of emotion. A living mask that could reflect desire, power, shame, and hunger all in one glance.
Her day was not about pleasure. It was about precision—the kind wielded by women like Veronica Franco, who seduced with sonnets and negotiated with senators, or Tullia d’Aragona, who turned salons into spheres of influence. For them, every glance was a tactic, every gesture a calculation. And centuries later, we still underestimate the labor it took to be unforgettable.
And centuries later, we still underestimate the labor it took to be unforgettable.