
Carampane: Venice’s Official Red-Light District Where Sex Was a Profession, Not a Scandal
June 2, 2025
Santa Croce: Where Venice Regulated Lust Like Commerce
June 2, 2025Walk into Campo San Polo today, and you’ll find children playing, tourists sipping spritz, and locals walking their dogs. It’s peaceful, even dull. But in the 1570s, one woman living here had every bishop, merchant, and foreign diplomat in Venice both aroused and terrified.
Her name was Veronica Franco.
And she was not like the others.
Born in 1546 to a family of modest means, Veronica was trained from an early age for a very specific career path: not simple prostitution, but cortigiana onesta — the “honest courtesan.” In Venice, these women were an entirely different class: beautiful, educated, well-read, fluent in poetry, music, politics, and even philosophy. They were not street girls — they were highly trained weapons of seduction for the intellectual and political elite.
Veronica Franco lived here, in San Polo, at the very center of Venice’s social theater. From her rooms she entertained senators, ambassadors, foreign royalty, poets, and cardinals. Her body was only part of the transaction; her real currency was conversation, wit, and power.
One of her most famous patrons?
King Henry III of France, who visited Venice in 1574 during his tour of Italy. According to multiple accounts (including her own poetic hints), Henry III requested a private evening with Veronica. She didn’t just entertain him — she made sure that every noble family in Venice knew she had entertained him. It was branding long before Instagram.
But Veronica Franco wasn’t simply a seductress. She was a published author — a rarity for women in the 16th century. Her first collection, Terze Rime (1575), included love poems, philosophical reflections, and thinly veiled commentary on Venetian society. Her letters reveal how deeply she understood the political games of the men she slept with.
She moved in and out of scandal like a dancer on silk:
- She survived the 1575 outbreak of plague, which killed nearly a third of Venice.
- She publicly debated male scholars — and often humiliated them with her sharp tongue.
- She became one of the few courtesans who dared to openly address the Venetian Senate when falsely accused.
That accusation nearly destroyed her. In 1580, Veronica Franco was dragged into the Inquisition, charged with witchcraft — an accusation that often followed powerful women who refused to bow. In the dim chambers of the Holy Office, she stood trial, while her former clients conveniently disappeared into silence.
But unlike many women before her, Veronica survived. Thanks to the intervention of powerful friends (some of whom had likely visited her bed), she was acquitted. She lost her fortune, but not her dignity.
By the late 1580s, her reign was over. She faded into poverty and died in 1591. Yet her legend remained, whispered across Venetian palazzos and salons long after her death.
Today, no plaque marks her home. No guide stops on Campo San Polo to tell her story. But if you walk its stone paths after sunset, you might imagine her standing in a high window, silhouetted against flickering candlelight — the most dangerous woman in Venice, offering not only her body but something far more seductive: influence.
Because in the Venice of La Cortigiana, sex was never just about pleasure.
It was about power.