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The Ridotto: Masks, Cards, and Courtesans. The Nights When Venice Sold Everything
juin 2, 2025Santa Croce doesn’t look like much today. Tourists hurry through it on the way to the bus station, dragging suitcases over uneven stones, oblivious to what once pulsed beneath their feet. But in the 16th century, Santa Croce was not simply another quiet corner of Venice. It was where the Republic did what Venice always did best: turn vice into perfectly legal, highly taxable business.
Unlike the high courtesans of San Polo or the provocative breasts on Ponte delle Tette, the women working in Santa Croce belonged to Venice’s industrialized sex trade: licensed, supervised, inspected, and controlled by the state. They weren’t poets or political players. They were workers — and the state treated them as such.
By the early 1500s, as Venice’s wealth exploded through trade with the East, prostitution flourished alongside it. But too much sex, left uncontrolled, created its own risks: venereal diseases, public scandals, illegitimate children among noble families, and, most importantly for Venice, lost tax revenue. So the government organized prostitution into tightly regulated districts — and Santa Croce became one of the largest.
The Republic issued formal licenses, assigned fixed prices, and even introduced rotating health checks conducted by provveditori alla sanità (the public health inspectors). The prostitutes were required to register, submit to medical exams, and follow strict appearance codes. No expensive silks, no pearls, no elaborate hairstyles — these luxuries were reserved for the elite courtesans. Instead, they were allowed simple fabrics, modest jewelry, and enough color to remain enticing, but never threatening to the upper class.
The system worked like a guild. Brothel owners paid taxes. Prostitutes paid fees. Venetian bureaucracy ran the entire thing like a small trade federation, with spreadsheets instead of sermons.
But even inside this mechanical system, human nature found ways to complicate the order. Wealthy nobles often “adopted” certain women from Santa Croce, upgrading them to unofficial mistresses. Church officials quietly visited under cover of night. Foreign merchants—especially German, Flemish, and Ottoman traders—were frequent customers, leaving behind both gold coins and diplomatic headaches.
One recorded scandal in 1542 involved Pietro Morosini, a minor noble, who fathered two illegitimate children with a registered prostitute from Santa Croce. When the affair was exposed, his wife’s powerful family attempted to strip him of his titles. The case dragged through the Council of Ten for years, a small window into how deeply prostitution and politics intertwined in Venice.
Even more cynically, many of these prostitutes had once been trafficked into Venice as slaves, especially from Crete, Cyprus, and the Balkans — territories controlled by the Venetian empire. For them, the brothels of Santa Croce were not liberation but economic survival within a brutal system masked as “regulation.”
Today, Santa Croce gives away none of these stories. No statues, no markers. Its stone streets remain silent, as they have for centuries. Yet every time a tourist apartment opens its shutters or a waiter carries spritz to a patio, they occupy spaces once filled with whispered negotiations, moans behind thin curtains, and careful accounting ledgers documenting every transaction.
Because in Venice, lust was not a sin.
It was state business.